Friday, July 26, 2013

Auto Upholstery Bay Area - Sound Proofing Your Car - Cooks Upholstery & Classic Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923




Sound is everywhere. Before we even open our eyes in the morning, we’re met by sound. Whether it’s the screech of an alarm clock or birds chirping a melodic tune, sound is all around us.

It’s easy to forget that. Our brains tune out everything but what’s important at the present moment. That’s what we focus on.

But the sound is still there, and the sound is still affecting us – either negatively or positively. We just aren’t aware of it.

For proof of this, think of a time you were having a conversation with music going on in the background. The music was influencing the mood of the conversation, even though the people involved were tuning it out and focusing on what was important – talking.

Where am I going with all of this? In order to experience the highest levels of comfort, in order to consistently maintain a positive mood, you need to be aware of the sound around you and how it is affecting you.

Now, let’s move to cars…

Luxury. The word has become almost synonymous with “vehicles.” We think of BMW’s, Mercedes, Cadillac, Rolls-Royce.

We think luxury is in the seat material. Or the climate control system. Or the way the steering wheel handles.

That’s what we think luxury is. But luxury isn’t a “thing.” It’s a feeling. And a major part of that feeling is silence.

Think about it. Every top-end luxury vehicle on the market is quiet. We ride in them and think, “what a smooth ride!” Really, what we’re noticing is the sound – or the lack thereof. This creates that luxurious, smooth feel.

Luxury Doesn’t Have to Cost $50,000+





Luxury car commercials are designed to take us away from that luxury feeling. They focus on features. They focus on the brand. They focus on the design. Of course, you know what you’re getting when you buy the car – you’re getting that feeling, plus all the other perks.

But if you knew that from the beginning, you’d realize a much easier and affordable way to get luxury is to simply go to the source. By using sound insulation, you can create that luxury feel in virtually any vehicle.

Yes, you can make a Honda Civic feel like a Rolls-Royce… almost.

How is it done?

Sound travels in waves. When you’re driving in a car, sound is hitting you from all angles. It’s coming from the engine, the road, the tires, the wind against the windshield, noise from other vehicles… it’s everywhere.

But sound waves don’t treat every surface equally. Some surfaces slow sound waves down so much that by the time they reach the human ear, they are almost non-existent. These materials are cheap and easy to find.

Your best bet is to purchase a car soundproofing kit. Usually made of foam or other sound deadening material, these kits are easy to install and will dramatically cut down on noise. When the sound waves come from all angles, they will hit these sound deadening materials, slowing down the sound waves.

The end result is a smooth and very quiet ride. The kind you’d normally only get in a top-end luxury vehicle.

 
 
So instead of paying a minimum of $50,000, just invest in some high-quality sound proofing material. And next time you’re driving down the road, you’ll notice something you probably haven’t heard in a car before – silence. 
 

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Auto Upholstery Bay Area - Dashboard Repair and Replacement - Cooks Upholstery & Classic Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923






Cracks and splits in dashes are a common problem. Often due to sun damage or because of human error, dashes become damaged and need to be repaired. 

Our repair method seeks to stabilize your dash first by reinforcing the damaged area. The area is then cleaned, prepped and retextured; giving your vehicle a natural look and that does not attract attention. The final phase is to custom color match your dash’s unique finish with our high quality Dyes. In most cases the repair is not apparent to the eye. 

In some cases, it is not possible to repair large cracks and splits. In such cases, we may be able to install a dash cover. These covers fit like a glove and come with a one-time manufacturer’s replacement warranty for the life of the cover. Ask us about warranty details.
 

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Auto Upholstery Bay Area - Vinyl Top Restoration - Cooks Upholstery & Classic Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923







Our Team of Experts have installed hundreds of vinyl tops over the years. Many older cars have half or full vinyl tops and these can be removed and a brand new top can be installed. We will remove the existing materials, clean the area and check for rust damage and if found, the area is treated with a rust inhibitor.  The next phase is to replace the padding and top returning your car to its original beauty!


http://www.cooksupholstery.com

Saturday, July 20, 2013

Auto Upholstery Bay Area - Porsche 356 Cabriolet Steering Wheel and Interior Restoration - Cooks Upholstery & Classic Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923

This Porsche 356B Super Cabriolet was built on December 14th of 1961. It was delivered new to Hoffman Motors in New York. The car wears black paint over a red leather interior with correct German square-weave carpets, Coco mats and headrests. The car was fitted with a period Blaupunkt radio, Hirschmann red-tip antenna, deluxe horn ring, chrome 5.5-inch wheels with crested hubcaps and a fresh set of radial tires. 

The car was given a full professional restoration to show condition. The work was performed between 1990 and 1992. The car was stripped to bare metal and repainted using the correct German paint, the interior was completely redone and the air-cooled engine was rebuilt and fully detailed. A front disc brake conversion with dual master cylinders, using the bolt pattern that allows B wheels to be mounted, was installed to aid drivability.

This car was awarded a First in Class award at the Porsche Club of America Nationals in 1993 and a Peoples Choice Award at the National 356 Registry Concours that same year. 

In 2010, this Porsche 356B Super Cabriolet was offered for sale at the Gooding & Company Auction held in Amelia Island, Florida. The car was expected to sell for $100,000 - $130,000. As bidding came to a close, the car had been sold for the sum of $104,500, inclusive of buyer's premium.

By Daniel Vaughan | Apr 2010


Cooks completes a full interior restoration on the following car. - You can see the work in progress.


Friday, July 19, 2013

Auto Upholstery Bay Area - 1962 Lincoln Continental Convertible Top Restoration - Cooks Upholstery & Classic Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923

In 1961, the Continental was completely redesigned by Elwood Engel. For the first time, the names Lincoln and Continental would be paired on a car other than one in the Mark series. The design was originally intended to be the new 1961 Ford Thunderbird, but the concept was enlarged and slightly altered before being switched to the Lincoln line by Robert McNamara. One of the most striking features of the new Continental was its size. It was two feet shorter than its predecessor. So much smaller was this car, that advertising executives at Ford photographed a woman parallel parking a sedan for a magazine spread. The new Continental's most recognized trademark, front opening rear doors, was a purely practical decision. The new Continental rode a wheelbase of 123", and the rear hinged doors were hinged from the rear to ease ingress and egress. When the Lincoln engineers were examining the seating buck that styling had made up, the engineers kept hitting the front hinged door of the buck with their feet. The rear hinged doors solved the problem. To simplify production (in the beginning, anyway), all cars were to be four-door models, and only two body styles were offered, sedan or convertible. Therefore, the rear doors were hung from the rear and opened from the front. This "suicide door" style was to become the best-known feature of 1960s Lincolns. The 1961 model was the first car manufactured in America to be sold with a 24,000 miles (39,000 km) or 2-year bumper-to-bumper warranty.

source: http://lincolncontinentalcars.webs.com/thehistory.htm



Cooks has completed a full replacement of this convertible top



http://www.cooksupholstery.com

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Auto Upholstery Bay Area - 1959 Mercedes 300 Interior Restoration - Cooks Upholstery & Classic Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923





Without doubt, the 300S (W188) is one of the greatest cars Mercedes has ever built. Introduced in 1952 as a two-door CoupĂ© or Roadster, it was the Ultimate Mercedes-Benz at the time, was built in very limited numbers, and was incredibly expensive. In 1955 the model was upgraded with fuel injection, independent rear suspension and some minor cosmetic changes, it was re-designated 300SC

The 300SC has the honour of being the last true coachbuilt Mercedes-Benz coupĂ©; it was hand-made with the same attention to detail as the great 540K's of the 1930's. 

Only 53 300SC Roadsters were made.


The interior on this car has been completely redone by us and the project came out perfect



History of the 1950-1960 Mercedes-Benz

Mercedes-Benz re-entered post-war production with Hans Nibel’s 1936, four-cylinder, side-valve 170, which was made until 1955 with few changes. It was also available as a diesel model. Two cabriolets were offered from 1949, with 2+2 seating and five-passenger layouts.
A more modern six-cylinder, 2-liter, 220 model joined the Mercedes lineup from 1951 to 1955. The car had faired-in headlights and could be ordered in sedan, Cabriolet, and coupe guises. The Mercedes-Benz 300S “Adenauer” sedans (named for the German chancellor) were built from 1951-57 and aimed at heads of state with limousine and four-door Cabriolet options.
Mercedes-Benz’s first all-new post-war design was the “ponton” – that is unibody – design of 1953. Offered as 180 side-valve and 180 diesel and later as a 190, with a 1.9-liter OHC unit and a diesel, it had flow-through fenders and six-seater body and resembled the contemporary Chevrolet.
Once again a much more useful 2-liter, six-cylinder 220 series appeared with the same body in 1954. A convertible and coupe appeared in 1955 and are quite sought after today. These are durable cars, though not as iconic a design to most enthusiasts’ eyes. The 220S offered twin carburetors from 1956, the same year as the short-wheelbase 219, and a fuel-injected 220SE was offered in 1958. These are not without rust problems, and the over-arching concern that they are all over 50 years old.
Sporty relatives of the Adenauer 300 sedans, a 300S and 300SC coupe and Cabriolet were offered from 1951 to 1958. They had classic prewar styling and proved to be useful performers. The 1956 to 1958 300SC models were fuel-injected, with dry-sump lubrication, and actually cost more than the accompanying 300SL Gullwing. Only 760 of all models were sold, and they are near the top of postwar Mercedes collectability today.
 
 
http//www.cooksupholstery.com

Friday, July 12, 2013

Auto Upholstery Bay Area - How to Fix Your Car's Weatherstripping - Cooks Upholstery & Classic Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923

Weather stripping keeps the inside in and the outside out. When these rubber seals go bad, your car will leak heat and air conditioning as well as face assault from wind and rain.

How To Sound Proof Your Car? Noise Blocking Tips And Materials.
Types of Sound Insulation / Sound Proof.Bonnet insulators

– these comprise foam rubber backed on one side by a woven cloth (or aluminised polyester) and on the other with pressure adhesive. As the name suggests, they’re suitable for mounting under bonnets and also under bootlids.

Noise barriers

– these materials use compressed layers of cotton-waste (or similar) sandwiching a thin layer of bitumen. They’re used both to absorb noise and also to prevent noise transmission. They can be mounted on the firewall within the cabin (ie under the carpet), under the boot carpet and behind the rear seat in booted sedans. This noise insulation is held in place with applied contact adhesive.

Anti-vibration materials

– these insulators comprise low resonance (acoustically ‘dead’) materials which are designed to stop panel vibration. In use they’re glued to the panels. It is important that the join between the insulator and the panel is continuous, with large amounts of contact adhesive therefore needed.
What is Sound Proofing? How Can I do It In With My Car?Sound Proofing starts with some means of damping. A number of products are available for this, and they all have various degrees of effectiveness. The best results are always obtained from using a combination of these products. There are mats, sprays, foams, and insulation available from a number of manufacturers

Mats are usually either Styrene-Butyadine-Rubber or asphaltic sheets backed with an adhesive of some type (although other materials are used in some cases). Installing mats in your vehicle is a simple way to reduce vibration, and is effective as well. The way mats work is that they are used to cover panels. The material they are made of absorbs vibrations in the panels, and turns them into heat, or it may simply lower the resonant frequency of the panel. Mats can also be placed between panels to reduce the amount of vibration between the two panels when they are in close contact. Many times, the mats will also have a metal foil backing to improve the heat resistance of the matting (thus allowing you to use it in an engine compartment). The matting also adds weight to a panel, reducing it’s tendency to vibrate in the first place. Some of the more popular mats are Dynamat and Road Kill, but there are alternatives.
Sprays are also used for damping. These sprays normally come in a professional can, which require a compressor and paintgun to apply, but many companies are starting to market aerosol cans of sound deadener spray. The spray is often used in places where matting would either be too difficult, or would add too much weight/bulk. Door panels are the most common application for sprays, as well as highly irregular crevices (like inside kickpanels). Sprays are suitable for large panels as well, but they tend to be messy, and require taping/masking off of upholstery and windows.

Foams come in two forms: Sheets of foam, and foam sprays. The sheets of foam are used much like mats are; They are laid over panels to reduce and absorb vibration. Unlike mats, which absorb the vibration and convert it to heat energy, foam sheets disperse the vibrations throughout, reducing its total energy. Foam sprays are used to fill in crevices. As they dry (or rather, cure), they expand slightly, pressing against the nearby panels. The individual cells help to disperse energy away from the vibrating panel, and absorb them. Foams can be expensive as well, and there is a low cost alternative here, as well. The first is Styrofoam©, which can be obtained in a spray can. Styrofoam© is the brand name for the polystyrene foam we are all familiar with (and somewhat annoyed by at times). The fumes given off by Styrofoam© are noxious, and many communities have laws banning its use due to environmental concerns. Another alternative is insulating foams like Great Stuff©, which is used in home construction. Great Stuff© is cheap, fireproof when cured, and readily available at any hardware store for about three dollars a can. Great Stuff© is also shapeable when it cures, and can be used to smooth sharp corners. The downside to Great Stuff©, like Ice Guard, is that it is messy. Once Great Stuff© is sprayed on upholstery, your clothes, your skin, etc, it’s all over. You hands will be stiff and sticky for days, if not weeks, and your clothes are forever ruined. Great Stuff© also expands voraciously, so spray it carefully.

Finally, there is insulation. Jute is the most common insulation. It is laid under carpets in both cars and houses, and is basically a thick mat of fibers which absorb sound. Though less effective than the other methods, it adds a plushness to carpets, and has very good thermal insulation. Micro Jute is recommended, because it’s much thinner than jute, and has about the same level of effectiveness. Jute or Micro Jute can be gotten from a number of manufacturers, and is available at any carpet supply store.
DIY NOISE BLOCKING TIPS IN MALAYSIA
First of all sponge is not gonna work. If you want to DIY super cheap, get the Insuflex from KHGuan (I think RM15+ a large sheet) and cable tie the thing (or glue it). If you want a medium alternative go to KFAudio and ask them to use Sikadamp (RM30 a piece) or go to Soundblok and ask them to quote on their stuff. If you want ultimate dampening get Dynamat Extreme which sells from RM60 to RM100 a piece and front doors only required 3 pieces to cover (meaning approx 6 to 7 pieces for 4 doors).

Otherwise mix and match. Doors use Dynamat, floor use soundblok, roof use Insuflex, bonnet use Insuflex, Boot use Dynamat.

source http://multirekabiz.blogspot.com/2009/03/how-to-sound-proof-your-car-noise.html

www.cooksupholstery.com

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Auto Upholstery Bay Area - Dashboard Repair and Replacement - Cooks Upholstery & Classic Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923



















Cracks and Splits in dashes are a common problem.  Often due to sun damage or because of human error, dashes
become damaged and need to be repaired.

At Cooks our repair method seeks to stabilze your dash first by reinforcing the damaged ares. The area is then
cleaned, prepped and retextured: giving your vehicle a natural look and that does not attract attention. the final phase is to custom color match your dash's unique finish with our high quality Dyes.  In most cases the repair is not apparent to the eye.

In some cases, it is not possible to repair large cracks and splits. In these cases, we may be able to install a dash cover.  These covers fit like a glove and come with a one time manufacturer's replacement warranty for the life of the cover.

http://www.cooksupholstery.com

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Auto Upholstery Redwood City - Wooden Steering Wheel Restoration on a Jaguar XKE - Great Story - Cooks Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923




Great Story on a Jaguar XKE E-type Restoration : Steering Wheel Refinishing
steeringrefinOne of the first things I wanted to tackle on the XKE was the wood steering wheel. The Series II cars have the same beautiful mahogany rims and lovely growler center piece as the Series I cars. The aluminum spokes are NOT polished and shiny like the Series I cars, but have a flatter brushed metal finish. One important tip – the center of the steering wheel is not a horn button. On Series II cars the horn is activated though an arm from the steering column. So, avoid banging away on that center to get the horn working… I wanted to refinish the steering wheel first because it is easy and fun to do, and because my wheel had some long cracks in the grain of the wood rim that made it a bit bendable. I did not want small cracks to become bigger problems.
The first thing to do is to remove the steering wheel from the car. This is easier than for most cars because it does not require a wheel puller. Now – here is an important warning that I received before I started – DO NOT START BY TRYING TO PRY OFF THE CENTER EMBLEM. If you do this you will only break an expensive emblem. Instead, look behind the spokes on the wheel (between the spokes and dash) and you will find three counter-sunk screws that hold the center emblem. Back-off these three screws and the emblem will be free to pull out of the center. Once you have the emblem free you just need to undo the large 1″ diameter nut that holds the wheel to the splined shaft of the steering column. Once the nut and washers are off gently rock the wheel free of the column – presto!
I used the gentle application of a small screwdriver and some wood skewers to open up the wood cracks in the rim of the wheel and then fill them with glue. I used Elmers Probond (c) wood glue. I then used clamps (protecting the wood with a layer of cloth) to hold the cracks tightly closed while the glue dried for 24 hours. I used four clamps all around the wheel. I did the glue work first so that any residue would be removed during the subsequent sanding.
XKE Steering Wheel Removal
Jaguar XKE ( E-type) Steering Wheel Removal
The next thing I tackled was the metal spokes. I taped up the wheel rim for protection and used a gentle cleaner then some light sanding with a 600 grade paper parallel with the spokes and the original brushed finish strokes. I did not use a metal polish or circular polishing etc. I did not want to over-polish the wheel and make is shiny. I wanted the original brushed finish, but clean of discolorations and minor imperfections. The approach I took worked well for me I think.
The Wheel Finish During Sanding and After Varnish
The Wheel Finish During Sanding and After Varnish
The original varnish on my wheel was pretty dried and cracked so it was easy to remove with fairly gentle sanding. I started with 220 grade paper and then worked my way to 1500 grade for the final smooth sanding. The hard part was getting the old varnish off from the bases of the indentations on the back side of the wheel. Once all the varnish was off and I had sanded the mahogany down to a very smooth finish I was ready to do the final refinish. The wheel is exposed to salt and moisture from the driver’s hands and temperature changes within the car. The finish has to be really tough. I used Helmsman Spar Urethane by Miniwax (c). This is supposed to be be very resistant stuff. I used it in the spray form and over the course of a two weeks did a number of coats – allowing 72 hours between recoats. The stuff goes on amazingly easy and smooth. It produces a beautiful finish. One important tip – I used clear urethane with absolutely no coloring. I have to admit that prior to applying the urethane the wood on the wheel rim looked really light and faded. I was worried about how it would look with a clear coat. However, the wood became much darker and richer looking as soon as I started to apply the clear urethane and really looks perfect. So, I would not advise using any stain or coloring when doing a steering wheel refinish for the XKE.
The final product of all this is a wheel that is solid again – and to my eye looks just great!

The Finished XKE Steering Wheel
The Finished Jaguar XKE ( E-type) Steering Wheel

source: http://jaguarxke.wordpress.com/2009/04/16/xke-steering-wheel-refinishing/

Friday, July 5, 2013

Auto Upholstery Redwood City - Tips To Avoid Convertible Top Repair - Cooks Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923




Ahh the feeling of the summer air, breeze and sunshine as you drive in your convertible. Nothing beats it. Unless you have screwed up your convertible top! If you don’t have a convertible, but are thinking seriously about buying one, here are some things to consider.
Let’s face it, that coolness that comes with your Audi, BMW, MINI, or Mercedes convertible is high maintenance. Yes, I said it! Convertible tops are high maintenance. There is no question that in the later models, they look better than ever and operate smoother and better than ever. But, they do have to be “babied”.

Tips to avoid convertible top replacement

  • If you have no operation of the unit when you press the button. STOP! It will not self-heal or anything like that. You do not want to burn out the motor.
  • If your convertible top is in the “up” position or partially open position and has stopped, do not drive it on a free way. You can bend the frame while driving at a highway speed. If you have to drive your car to your local technician, drive slowly to avoid any damage to the frame.
  • Keeping the back window clean, and the canvas top is a must. Those long dusters, (called California Dusters) are great to bring with to lightly dust off any debris before you close that top down into the folded position. Taking convertible top down if it is dirty, is just asking for a scratched back window and unsightly marks on that beautiful canvas top.
  • Never rub that back window on your convertible top with anything. If you happen to have a hand vacuum, it is great to use on the canvas top and the back window, for the times that duster is not doing the trick.
  • Don’t take your convertible through a car wash. Just don’t do it! Hand wash is a must to keep that baby looking fantastic. For the canvas top, use a cleaner and protectant such as RaggTop brand, and follow the directions on cleaning and protecting the top on your convertible.
  • Look for noticeable frays or loose threads and always monitor for wear to the canvas top. There are few good quality upholstery shops that specialize in repairing the canvas convertible tops, if necessary. Those rear plastic windows that have cracked and turned brown from the sun, can be replaced, too. Depending on the year and model, those can even be replaced with specialized glass units.
Don’t forget that we can help you with your AUDI, BMW, MINI, and Mercedes. Enjoy the road!

Read more: http://www.thedrivingmachine.com/tips/avoid-convertible-top-repair#ixzz2XxOmcpOZ
by Mary Payne

http://www.cooksupholstery.com

Thursday, July 4, 2013

Auto Upholstery Redwood City - Getting Grease and Oil Stains Out of Your Interior - Cooks Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923



Loving your car can truly be a draining experience. While those who do not care about their vehicles are bothered by nothing; including dents, stains, scratches, rips, tears, whatever the case may be, such is not the case for car lovers and enthusiasts. Indeed, anyone who has spent a long period of time cleaning or detailing their car know how truly difficult fighting against interior wear and tear can be. Often, even a simple stain or issue can turn into a project when it comes to fixing it. However, one of the biggest fears of any car lover is doubtlessly the mechanic. Why? Why should this figure designed to fix and improve the quality of vehicles be the source of nightmares? The answer is simple, for the mechanic is the usual source of grease and oil getting on the interior of your vehicle. For many people, this seems to be a problem with no solution, and they are simply forced to live with the ugly, horrible stain. However, there is a solution to getting grease and oil off of your interior, and it is both easy and effective.
Of course, like any solution to a problem, their really is no "best way" for getting those stubborn grease and oil stains off of your car. In fact, a variety of methods exist, meaning that the choice is really up to the owner when it comes to deciding what to do. However, one of the most popular methods involves nothing other than brake cleaner.
Yes, it may sound quite strange, but aerosol brake cleaner is the number one choice of actual car shops and garages when it comes to removing stains from the interior. Because of the components of the cleaner, it is not only effective against oil and grease, but can also be used an agent to remove other trouble stains, such as pen marks, food stains, and any other ground in mess or dirt. Using the brake spay to clean the interior is also a fairly simple process, simply spray it onto the area, let is sit for a few seconds, and then scrub it out. However, there are a few problems with using the spray for a cleaner. Namely, anyone who has ever smelled the stuff knows that it is a truly nasty odor, and a potentially dangerous one as well.
When using this method to clean a car, make sure that the vehicle has been placed outside, and the all of the doors, sunroof/moon roof, t-tops, or whatever you have is open. Opening everything up will allow the car to more effectively ventilate, and will also make the cleaning procedure a lot safe for whoever is attempting it. Car owners who care about the smell of their vehicle may want to keep an extra air freshener or good smelling cleaning product on hand in order to follow up with use of the brake spray. Be warned, aerosol brake spray, like any other cleaning product does have the potential to damage or discolor your interior. Before using the spray on an open area, you definitely want to test it on area of your car that you would not care about discoloring. Remember to be extra careful when it comes to leather interiors, as the spray does have the potential (although it is very unlikely) to strip them of color.
If one is not quite so adventurous as to play around with the brake spray, than a simple trip to the auto store should yield an entire collection of products that are designed specifically to remove grease and other unwanted stains. Remember to try a variety of products, and ask around to find out which solution works the best for different people. However, if one is feeling stuck, than simply ask any local mechanic, mechanics have to deal with the problem on a fairly constant level, and they are well equipped with knowledge to handle the problem.
Remember never to give up hope in the fight against removing grease and oil stains from your interior, the battle can be won, it just takes a some intelligence, patience, and a little bit of research to best find out how to combat the unsightly stain.
 
 

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Auto Upholstery Redwood City - Auto Upholstery care tips - Cooks Restoration Redwood City (650) 364-0923





Your car’s upholstery probably takes more wear and tear than you realize: Soiled shoes, spilled drinks, kids and pets can quickly turn your car’s interior into a mess. Follow these upholstery cleaning tips to help eradicate the mess:
1. Deal with spilled drinks immediately
It’s not always easy to do, especially if you’re traveling on the highway or in heavy traffic, but the quicker you clean up spills such as coffee, juice or cola, the less likely you’ll have a stain set in your seat fabric or carpet. Fist, dilute the spill cool water (never use hot water, it can set the stain). Then, blot the excess liquid up with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Use glass cleaner for difficult stains
Some difficult stains that remain even after you clean them can sometimes be broken up with glass cleaner. Before using glass cleaner to remove a stain, test it in an inconspicuous area to make sure it won’t stain the fabric or carpet itself. Then saturate the area with glass cleaner, let it sit for five minutes, then blot to clean.
3. Attack ink stains with hairspray
If you somehow get ink on your car’s interior fabric or carpet, spray the area with hairspray. Let it sit for a few minutes until it absorbs the stain, then wipe it off. Repeat as needed.
4. Don’t let bloodstains set
If blood comes in contact with your vehicle’s upholstery, do not clean it with hot water, which can set the stain. Make a paste with cold water and powdered laundry detergent. Apply to the stain until the stain dries, then use a brush or vacuum to remove it. Clean up any excess laundry detergent to avoid attracting more stains or dirt to the area.
5. Clean vinyl the right way
In general, vinyl upholstery can be cleaned with a damp rag and baking soda. Rinse this mixture off with water and dish soap. Avoid using any oil- or mineral-based cleaners, which can make vinyl stiff.
 
source: http://www.angieslist.com/articles/10-auto-upholstery-care-tips.htm
by Nicole Harms, Angie's List contributor